Recasting Warhammer Scenery | MASSIVE SILICONE POUR

Recasting Warhammer Scenery | MASSIVE SILICONE POUR


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Chủ đề bài viết: #Recasting #Warhammer #Scenery #MASSIVE #SILICONE #POUR

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Minas Tirith, it is here the hammer stroke will fall hardest. Sauron’s labour of war is long prepared, and he now unleashes his full might on this bastion of the men of the west. This wargaming scenery and terrain how to make guide explores the mighty city of Minas Tirith perfect for getting you ready for our new Middle Earth Campaign, ‘Minas Tirith in Flames’. Lord of the Rings Warhammer is BACK BABY!

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0:00 So it begins….
1:35 Golden Rules of Silicon
2:19 Preparing the Master
3:47 Mold Boxes
5:18 POUR THE SILICON ALREADY
6:49 Not a great start…
7:35 Take 2
8:38 Demolding time!
9:23 Uh oh…..
9:57 Casting begins!
11:33 RECAST MODE ACTIVATED
13:35 More demolding painnnn
14:42 More Casting woes
16:23 The road goes ever on….

Wargaming Terrain & Scenery tutorials:

Middle Earth & Lord of the Rings Wargaming:

Star Wars Legion:

Warhammer 40k:

+++++ Disclaimer +++++

This video reviews content from the Middle Earth Strategy Battle Game formerly known as Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game and The Hobbit Strategy Battle Game. MESBG is a skirmish style war game developed by Games Workshop, based off the incredible artwork from the three films by Peter Jackson as well as drawing inspiration directly from the books. Players take control of the forces of good and evil and play out epic moments from the Lord of the Rings in anything from small heroes driven scenarios to epic battles utilising hundreds of models. To find out more, head over to www.games-workshop.com

This video reviews content from Star Wars Legion. Star Wars Legion is a squad style war game developed by Fantasy Flight Games, based off the incredible artwork from the anthology of Star Wars Films created by George Lucas and now conintued by Disney. To find out more, head over to

This video reviews content from Warhammer 40000. WH40k is a squad style war game developed by Games Workshop set in a grim dark universe, 40000 years in the future. Across a million worlds the Imperium of man is beset from all sides by alien horrors and the forces of chaos, the evil machinations of the warp itself. To find out more, head over to www.games-workshop.com

This video contains music by the amazing Kevin MacLeod:

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41 Comments

  1. Hindsight's 20/20, but you probably should have broken up each piece into at least two or more subassemblies and made molds for each. The giant block could have been done as two molds of two perpendicular walls each, maybe 3/8"-1/2" thick each. There was a bit of marbling in the silicone so you have to mix it much more thoroughly. That said, the detail and craftsmanship on your masters were first rate. I can recommend two channels: Robert Tolone and Eric Strebel. These guys are experts.

  2. Tip from having worked with silicone:

    1: Keep your silicon from failed casts, cut them into chunks / small cubes. Add then the volumes you are casting.
    2: Instead of pouring into a box containing your master, brush on silicone in layers, use a thickener for the final layers. Create a 2 – 3 peice resin mother mould to containe the silicone mould.
    3: in this type of mould you can cut a side of the cube so it become easier to demould. place into the resin shell and the cut wont even apear on the cast

    check out Brick in the yard and smooth-on youtube channels

  3. Probably a dumb question, since you've clearly got more practical experience with this than I do, but why not make multipart molds? From my understanding, that could have addressed a lot of the issues with the stairs.

  4. it's a great project and a really enjoyable one! don't get this as a personal attack, but as a comunity we should stop doing 24 h challenges or rush progects, it's a toxic concept for the comunity, it's what is happening in the work ethics too, everything must be rushed, and as a hobby we should not promote this attitude, it's ok to speedpaint and organize projects to be as efficient as u can, but pls sleep, take rests, use a week if necessary but don't teach new hobbyist to rush projects

  5. Man, makes me think of what the time would have been to 3d model and print that instead, and if the quality would have been anywhere similar.

  6. you have used silicone moulds before but only like small modes for a little bits of models like hands extra arms i needed that one in the kit you know little pieces

  7. Whenever I have a tear in the silicone, I use superglue to repair the tear. HOWEVER.
    You use a lot of strength to unmold, so that would tear the superglue apart.
    Nevermind this, superglue can fix a mold for a few more casts.

  8. I really don't get why you chose to do monolithic pieces when thin walls made to fit together would be effectively the same outcome since you are filling the interior with scrap foam. a 1' deep mold of the faces and slightly deeper for the stairs with mortice and tenon joints to create model pieces you just join and glue wouldn't even need all the foam inside. if you 3d printed it you'd use a fill pattern not solid but what actually counts are the outer surfaces the part you should mold not all the volume even if its infill foam. walls even including the windows and basic textures are barely 3/4" deep and buttresses or details beyond that can be separated as a mold in themselves and applied after.

  9. For more misadventures, try using expanding foam resin. This will reduce your cost of resin dramatically. However, you will need full wooden mold boxes and a mess of clamps to keep it all together.

  10. You would have saved a TON of money even on top of your original plan by making skin molds with thickened silicone brushed on and then made plaster shells over the silicone molds. Plus you could have gotten probably close to 70-100 casts of each piece off of those molds.

  11. For saving a TONNE of money on material, why don't you do a slush-cast in something like Barnes TC808, followed by a backfill of an expanding urethane like their R-Foam. We've used both of these to great success on much larger prop pieces and it would save a tonne of money compared to doing this all with EasyCast. For some of them I'd even just straight up do an expanding pour of GP-6; that's how our Sulfuras replica stands were produced for example!

  12. My boyfriend said you are a cool person and respect your work mate. I really enjoy the models and the terrain. Thank you. ❤️😊

  13. Sorry for question which isn't connected with this video, but I've seen your Battle Report of LOTR SBG Balins Tomb. Could you tell me which book includes scenario of this battle?

  14. 13:05 since you were going to pour silicone again anyways, you could have made a correction cut into the blue silicone in order to have enough room to access the fault, correct the master and pour. better result, with minimal additional overhead and equal risk.

  15. Awesome video. You are really engaging and this was quite an education on what to do – and what not to do 🙂
    There are some things I have learned from this video that might provide good solutions for your next molds 🙂
    1) Design your buildings like flatpack furniture. If the master can be disassembled into planes (and reassemled intact) you can cast the planes with much less effort, cost and risks. Giant molds like the ones above are better suited for things you can't break down into geometric shapes.
    2) Paint your styrofoam with cheap primer to seal the surface.
    3) If you have tears in the mold (or different materials) first glue them together and then sew them together. The glue is primarily to ensure the parts are aligned properly. The threads will leave imprints but it will not tear further. Add strong tape on the outside to absorb most of the tension, and any leaks.

  16. Coulda just used silicone in a tube . Mix up some protopuddy . With the resin i woulda just swished it around thw mold as it would dry . Yup 200$ woulda done it . Epic cost there.

  17. 2 Part molds+ slush casting are the way to go with such large pieces. also dusting the mold with baby powder before each resin pour really helps eliminate surface bubbles

  18. Im planning on making helms deep. I’ve got the games workshop set with the gate and two wall sections. I’ve been looking at the pink but found it really expensive and hard to come by where im from but have managed to find some already brickwork carved and primed foam sheets that are reasonably priced. Im considering making the wall shapes from regular packing polystyrene and then glueing the brickwork sheets over the top instead of attempting to carve bricks into polystyrene. Can anyone tell me if that is a good solution as an alternative to really expensive pink foam bricks?

  19. The raw materials used are the most important part of any build or project, since if they are not suitable or durable enough, you end up spending more time trying to salvage the result because of the time and money invested, all the while trying to stave off the spectre of defeat. Cheap materials, too absorbent or weak are often the bane of project joy, as I have been learning with some low density polystyrene that I used which I rescued from the bin at my workplace.

    Next time, I'll gladly pay for some decent polystyrene to avoid the misery of trying to rescue a big project.

  20. As someone who used to do quite a bit of casting, this was very tough for me to watch. However, the project and the amount of detail you're putting into it is inspiring as fuck. I wish I had a Minas Tirith.

  21. Great video, long but informative and easy to follow for anyone. Nice tips on using the foam or foam core on the outside for pour supports. Cheaper than using wood or plaster and cloth. Gonna have to remember that one.

  22. not much experience with this stuff, but it seems like 3d printing could be far more cost effective – with a large enough printer and some post processing it could yield decent results!

  23. I really like the way the grout made the master for the stairs, it looked like the dirt that can accumulate in the corner of really old stone stairs.

  24. Why on earth didn't you just break the project down into panels? Even a strip of stairs is just a panel with ridges.
    That way each side turned into a panel would only need to be as thick as you wanted, the silicon use would've been a fraction and then it's just adhering it to a polystyrene framing block that has been cut to shape and pinned together via doweling for more strength.
    Any gaps and connections would've been a breeze to fit together and blend via a moulding paste or clay.

  25. You should visit Brick in the Yard YT channel, they have a lot of tutorials on how to make suck moulds.

    Mistake #0 – You should always, ALWAYS BRUSH on thin layer (or two thin coats, giggity) of silicone on Your master. Mix small batch (carefully), brush it on, pop any bubbles, let it cure. That way no matter how horrible job You do at pouring You'll get boubble-free and complete mould. It may warp (from air pockets), but You still should get decent result, especially if it's terrain piece.

    Rule 4 is a lie IF you do full coat over master, people often use several kinds of silicone for that type of mould – one for brushing on, other for "main body" of mould. And even then some silicones stuck together.

    Also white styrofoam actually melts from most types of resin (this is why it foams). Never use it with resin. You can brush it on to form resin shell first, but I wouldn't recommend it anyway.

  26. Oomoo is a garbage fire of a product. Quite a thrilling build though! Learning moldmaking/casting is a much longer and more expensive task that most people realize. Grats on sticking with it.

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